Climbing Shoe Fit Guide: How Tight Is Too Tight?

Q: How tight should climbing shoes be?

Snug with no dead space — toes should be slightly curled but not painfully cramped. Beginner shoes should be comfortable-snug; you'll wear them for hours. Performance shoes for experienced climbers are tighter for precision. Leather shoes stretch 0.5-1 size; synthetic shoes barely stretch.

Q: Should I size down in climbing shoes?

Beginners: go true to size or half size down. Intermediate: 0.5-1.5 sizes down depending on shoe style. Aggressive shoes require more downsizing than flat shoes. Always try before buying — sizes vary wildly between brands.

Q: When should I resole climbing shoes?

Resole when rubber gets thin but before you wear through to the rand (the rubber wrapping the shoe). A resole costs $35-55 and is worth it for shoes over $100. Once the rand is damaged, resoling is more expensive and less effective. Check sole thickness monthly.

The "Size Down Until It Hurts" Myth

Leather-lined shoes stretch a full size. Synthetic shoes stretch barely a quarter. Lined leather is in between. The correct fit depends on level and construction.

Right Fit By Level

Beginner: snug, mild pressure, slight toe curl, wearable 30+ min. Intermediate: tighter, toes curled, some discomfort. Advanced: performance fit for sends, camp shoes for belaying.

Shoe Shape Matters More Than Size

Foot shape (Egyptian, Greek, Roman) should match toe profile. Egyptian foot (big toe longest) → La Sportiva. Greek foot (2nd toe longest) → Scarpa. Mismatch creates pressure points no break-in fixes.

La Sportiva Solution Comp

$185 Check Price on Amazon

Aggressive downturn, P3 platform, XS Grip2. Competition standard — runs 1 full size small.

Scarpa Instinct VS

$179 Check Price on Amazon

Moderate downturn, Vibram XS Edge, bi-tension rand. Best for technical face — true to street size.

Evolv Shaman

$165 Check Price on Amazon

Love Bump midsole, TRAX SAS rubber. Unique big-toe power — cult following.

Butora Acro Comp

$170 Check Price on Amazon

Wide AND narrow versions, Neo Fuse rubber, triple strap. Best for wide feet.

La Sportiva Mythos

$145 Check Price on Amazon

Unlined leather, flat, lace-up. Classic all-day trad shoe — stretches a full size.

Sources

Climbing Magazine. "How to Fit Climbing Shoes." 2024.
REI Co-op. "How to Choose Climbing Shoes." 2025.
La Sportiva. "Shoe Technology Guide." 2025.

Frequently Asked Questions

How tight should climbing shoes be?

Snug with no dead space. Beginner shoes should be comfortable-snug. Leather stretches 0.5-1 size; synthetic barely stretches.

Should I size down in climbing shoes?

Beginners: true to size or half size down. Intermediate: 0.5-1.5 sizes down. Always try before buying — sizes vary wildly between brands.

When should I resole climbing shoes?

When rubber gets thin but before you wear through to the rand. A resole costs $35-55 and extends shoe life significantly.

Climbing Shoe Fit Guide: How Tight Is Too Tight?

The "Size Down Until It Hurts" Myth

Shoe Shape Matters More Than Size

Sources

Frequently Asked Questions

How tight should climbing shoes be?

Should I size down in climbing shoes?

When should I resole climbing shoes?

Equipment Intel, Weekly