Two Fundamentally Different Tools
Ice axes divide cleanly into two categories based on intended use. Buying the wrong type is one of the most common and expensive mistakes in mountaineering gear purchasing:
- Mountaineering/Alpine axes: Long, straight or slightly curved shaft. Used for glacier travel, snow climbing, crevasse rescue, and self-arrest. One axe, held like a walking stick.
- Technical ice tools: Short, aggressively curved shaft. Used for vertical and near-vertical ice climbing. Used in pairs — one per hand.
Mountaineering Axes
Designed for all-day snow travel, crevasse rescue, belaying on snow, and occasional low-angle ice. Key design features:
- Long shaft (55–70cm) — length allows self-arrest and walking with spike in snow
- Straight or gently curved shaft (5–15° droop)
- Simple adze head (flat blade for chopping steps in snow)
- B-rated (Basic) or T-rated (Technical) — B-rated is sufficient for most mountaineering
Classic picks: Black Diamond Raven Pro, Petzl Sum'Tec, Grivel Nepal Evo.
Technical Ice Tools
Designed for vertical ice climbing. Everything about them is optimized for swinging into near-vertical or overhanging ice:
- Short shaft (40–55cm) — keeps the tool close to the body on vertical ice
- Aggressive droop (55–70° angle)
- Hammer head (for placing ice screws) OR second adze (for mixed climbing)
- Ergonomic grip with thumb rests for resting on steep ice
- T-rated (must be T for lead climbing)
Used in pairs. Modern tools are leashless — you clip them to your harness between placements.
Shaft Angles (Droop) Explained
Shaft droop is the angle between the handle axis and the pick attachment plane. This determines how well the axe performs on steep terrain:
| Droop Angle | Type | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| 0–5° | Mountaineering | Glacier walking, self-arrest |
| 5–15° | Alpine/All-around | Snow slopes, moderate ice |
| 45–60° | Technical/Intermediate | WI2–WI4, steep ice |
| 60–75° | Technical/Advanced | WI4–WI7, overhanging ice & mixed |
The practical rule: More droop = better performance on steeper ice, but worse for flat terrain. Mountaineers don't need droop. Ice climbers need significant droop.
Pick Geometry
The pick is the business end. Three parameters matter:
Pick Angle (vs shaft)
Standard vs steep. Steep picks (more curved toward the shaft) penetrate vertical ice better and clear placements easier with a twist of the wrist.
Teeth Pattern
Aggressive teeth bite harder but are harder to remove from ice. Finer teeth offer smoother removals. Most beginners benefit from moderate-tooth picks that balance these characteristics.
Positive Clearance (Reverse Angle)
Teeth that angle slightly forward rather than straight down. Creates a "hook" effect that loads the pick into ice under weight. Standard on modern technical tools; absent on mountaineering axes. Results in much more secure placements on steep terrain.
B vs T Certification (UIAA)
| Rating | Standard | Use | Required For |
|---|---|---|---|
| B (Basic) | UIAA 152 B | Snow and glacier walking | Mountaineering, glacier travel |
| T (Technical) | UIAA 152 T | Ice climbing | Leading ice routes, technical climbing |
T-rated axes pass more rigorous load testing. If you're ever going to lead ice, you must use T-rated tools. B-rated tools may be lighter but should not be trusted for lead climbing falls.
Sizing Your Ice Axe
Mountaineering Axis Sizing
Stand upright. Hold the axe by the head with your arm at your side. The spike should come to within 5–10cm of the ground. Generally:
- Under 5'6" (168cm): 55–60cm
- 5'6"–6' (168–183cm): 60–65cm
- Over 6' (183cm): 65–70cm
Technical Ice Tool Sizing
Much shorter — 40–55cm. Sized by shaft length (not overall) and ergonomics. Most climbers use the same length regardless of height. Try tools in store if possible — grip position and swing arc are very personal preferences.
Recommended Ice Axes
Sources & Further Reading
- Black Diamond Equipment. "Ice Axe Selection Guide." blackdiamondequipment.com
- UIAA. "Ice Axe Standards 152." theuiaa.org
- Petzl. "Choosing an Ice Tool." petzl.com
- American Alpine Club. "Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, 9th Edition." americanalpineclub.org
- Gripped Magazine. "Ice Axe Buyer's Guide 2026." gripped.com
See also: Ice Climbing Gear Guide: Complete Starter Kit | Crampons Buying Guide | Snowshoe Buying Guide
